Outdoor Escapades on the North Umpqua: A Journey into the Wild for the Whole Family

When it comes to family adventures in the Pacific Northwest, Oregon is a treasure trove of natural wonders waiting to be explored. Among its many gems, the North Umpqua region stands out for its old growth forests, crystal-clear rivers, waterfalls, and abundant opportunities for outdoor fun. Whether you're an experienced outdoorsy family or just looking for a new adventure, the North Umpqua has something for everyone.

Getting There: Located in the southwestern part of Oregon, the North Umpqua is approximately a 3.5-4 hour drive from Portland and a 2 hour drive from Eugene. Note that most of the wild and scenic area has no cell phone reception.

Accommodation: Several campgrounds, cabins, and lodges are scattered throughout the area,

offering a range of accommodations to suit your family's preferences.

In the summer, campgrounds are a budget friendly option and there are many beautiful sites to choose from. One of my personal favorites is Boulder Flat. It costs only $10 a night and is located close to some of our favorite destinations. There are 9 campsites here; this area is popular with whitewater enthusiasts (there is a raft put in located in this campground as well).

If you are looking for an RV spot, glamping

or cabin experience, we recommend Umpqua Last Resort. When the weather on our recent trip turned stormy, we rented one of their large glamping tents. It came with two sets of bunk beds, a mini fridge, all the cookwear, a heater, and ample space.

There is an outdoor firepit and barbeque in front of each space as well. There is also wifi available here from a third-party source for an additional fee.

Dining:

The best food on the North Umpqua is at Steamboat Inn (mile marker 38 on Highway 138)! The Steamboat Inn is a renowned and historic lodge. There are cabins to rent and a restaurant with locally sourced food. I recommend getting outdoor seating so you can have a great view of the river. There is also a short trail to get close to Steamboat Falls (visible from the restaurant patio).

The only other food option in this area is the Dry Creek Store (near Umpqua Last Resort). This is more of a convenience store with snacks, camping supplies, and a place to fill your gas tank.

Toketee Falls: A Waterfall Adventure

No visit to North Umpqua is complete without

experiencing the iconic Toketee Falls. While this waterfall is a bit more popular, it's still a must-see for families. The trailhead is located at mile marker 58.6 off of Highway 138. Stay to the left at the Y intersection and drive across a small bridge. The trailhead will be on your left. In the parking lot there will be an old wooden pipe bursting at the seams with jets of water. This is part of an old hydroelectric project! There is no fee for parking and a restroom at the trailhead.

The hike to Toketee Falls is relatively easy, winding through an old-growth forest and leading to the impressive 120-foot waterfall. The trail is well maintained but not stroller friendly due to the stairs and rocky terrain. Most of the trail is gated at the cliff edges all the way to the lookout area. Stay for a while and admire the hexagonal basalt columns framing this incredible waterfall!

Umpqua Hot Springs: A Relaxing Oasis

After your waterfall adventure, it's time for a little relaxation at the Umpqua Hot Springs which are only a ten minute drive down the road. From the Toketee Falls trailhead, turn left onto the gravel road. You will pass Toketee Lake and part of a hydroelectric plant then approach an intersection. Stay to the right and follow this road to the Umpqua Hot Springs Trailhead. This is a fee area ($5 per vehicle) and restrooms at the trailhead as well as near the hot springs.

Located along the North Umpqua River, these natural hot springs are renowned for their mineral rich waters and unique geology. The hike begins by crossing a bridge over the river. Turn right after crossing the bridge and go up a steep but short section. There are wooden guard railings on part of this section.

The hike to the hot springs is only .36 miles. There are seven geothermal pools that have been eroded over time out of the rocks. These vary in temperature. The hottest pool known as the “lobster pot” is at the very top and is a toasty 108 degrees. There is a rope near the seven main pools that you can use to scramble down to the river edge. There is a lukewarm pool here that has a covered cave area.

The Umpqua Hot Springs are a popular destination, and it can be crowded on weekends. Also note that this area is clothing optional. The most kid-friendly time to visit is early in the morning on a weekday. short hike to the springs is manageable for children, and the warm, soothing waters provide a serene experience for the whole family. It's the perfect place to unwind and soak in the beauty of the wilderness.

The Dread and Terror Trail to Surprise and Columnar Falls: A Not-So-Dreadful Adventure

Columnar Falls (left) and Surprise Falls (right)

For families seeking a bit of excitement and adventure, the Dread and Terror Trail to Surprise Falls and Columnar Falls are an often-overlooked adventure and can be accessed from the North Umpqua Hot Springs Trailhead.

Don't be deterred by the ominous name; there is nothing dreadful nor terrifying about this trail! According to the BLM website: “ In 1908, two rangers on horseback named a four-mile ridgeline south of the river as "Dread and Terror" in reference to the disagreeable possibility of fighting forest fires in the impenetrable thickets of white thorn brush blanketing the area.”

It can be a bit confusing to find this trail as it is not clearly marked. After a soak in the hot springs, hike back across the bridge. Near the information sign there is a small trail that leads east. Follow this trail and you will shortly meet the main road. Walk the roadside east past gravel piles and dip back down into the woods.

After .35 miles of hiking through old growth forest, Surprise Falls will gush out from beneath the trail. You can get really close to this waterfall and see how powerful it is. Only a few minutes down the trail you will see columnar falls- a short section of basalt columns with water pouring over the edges. Right across from columnar falls there is a beautiful, open area next to the river to sit and enjoy a picnic. If you peer across the river you will see the hot springs! If you want to explore the base of Surprise Falls, there is a very small overgrown trail that you can access.

Watson Falls: A Hidden Gem

Hidden away in the Umpqua National Forest at mile post 60.5 on Highway 138, Watson Falls offers a more secluded adventure. A short but moderately steep hike through lush forest takes you to this beautiful waterfall which is the highest waterfall in southwest Oregon with its 293 foot drop (third highest in all of Oregon).

This adventure can be added on after Toketee Falls, Umqua Hot Springs, and the Surprise/Columnar Falls hike to make a full adventure day. There is no fee to park in the Watson Falls parking lot and there is a restroom as well as a picnic table.

To find the trailhead, climb the stairs and cross the road. The trail is all uphill but in only .3 miles you get your first glance of the falls from a small bridge. At .36 miles into the hike, there is a bench with a nice view. If you want to get to the base of the falls, scramble past the boulders across from this bench and follow a small, worn pathway. A short hike up the main trail takes you to another viewpoint. Follow the trail downhill the way you came or take the other trailhead to create a loop. If you take the other trailhead, walk east (downhill) to meet up with the original road crossing.

Susan Creek Falls: Nature’s Playground

If you are looking for an easy hike with a place to swim on your way up the North Umpqua or on your way home, Susan Creek Falls is a great choice. This area was heavily impacted by the Archie Creek Fire in 2020. The trail is currently open, though not fully restored. There is a lot of poison oak along the trail so stay on the main pathways.

There is a Susan Creek Day use area near the river at mile marker 29 on Highway 138 which has picnic benches. This is not the trailhead for the waterfall- the waterfall trailhead is across the road. There is a restroom at the waterfall trailhead as well and no fee for parking.

This kid-friendly trail is about a mile round trip (and is stroller friendly if you have an all terrain stroller such as a BOB). The trail is mostly flat and passes a lot of interpretive signs describing various tree species in the area (many burned in the fire). Notice how the forest is slowly recovering after a wildfire.

When you arrive at the waterfall, there are plenty of places to play in the creek and near the waterfall itself. This is a great summer swimming spot!

The North Umpqua is a haven for those seeking solace in the great outdoors. I first explored this area as a fly fisher- my husband and I lived in Eugene so we would drive to the fly fishing only Wild and Scenic Area. Now I have explored the area as a hiker with young kids. Whether you're drawn to the North Umpqua for its hiking trails, world-class fishing, or simply the opportunity to reconnect with nature, this corner of Oregon has it all.